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New case PC Rebuild

[jc]VanDamme

Banrighted
Banrighted
#1
I made an afk thread a few weeks ago and wanted to update you guys with a build log I was doing.

What a nightmare it has been and still not over yet!

OK to start with I had a Corsair 800D Obsidian case, called the 'Bruiser' as it was black and blue themed :p
It was too big for the living room, so decided to either build a desk case or use a different case.

The Bruiser:












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My SSD needed repairing as the SATA housing snapped off into the cable. But I fixed it :) :







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Next I bought the cheap Kolink Observatory case, this had problems from the go and a few trips to and from the shop I bought it from solved it.

The RGB controller broke with a bad smell (the usual kind you get with electronics). Still not working and the RGB in the fans also didn't work:





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Now I had the RGB fans working I stripped my old case, expecting lots of dust (which I got) but another disaster struck, look at the state of these blocks:




Which was expected to an extent as I could see some discoloration! But this:



I am not sure but it could have been these guys eroding over time (Galvanic Corrosion):


So I felt like Walter White from Braking Bad cooking these babies, 39 p vinegar and the most disgusting cola you can get, this was 17 p for 2 litres :p
(the acetic and phosphoric acids respectively do the magic!)


Success!!!! A day later and heated upto approx. 60 C to accelerate the process:

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Braided my pump and fitted a black connector:
 

[jc]VanDamme

Banrighted
Banrighted
#2
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The problem with the new case was size, so I went from a 360 + 240 rads to 2 x 240 rads. I also ditched the bay reservoir (because this case doesn't have *any* 5.25 inch bay drives!) to purchased the Thermal take tube reservoir.

Sizing up components:


At this stage I must confess that I went only by visual fitting from pics and text descriptions of the product, I haven't seen anyone else anywhere try and fit what I have done. BUT Kolink claim a 240 rad can fit at the front and top! So this is crunch time:




I saw that after fitting the motherboard and ram that the rad would be OK but the fans could not be fitted.
I thought about the slimline fans but the would be more expense. I thought about fitting the rad or the fans outside the case, but how to mount them?



I used a push-pull config in my last case but couldn't here. Then I remembered I was going to fit the fans as I did in my last case; by using velcro to attach them to the rad, this way I easily remove the fans to clean the dust from the fins!

So the fans and rad could fit inside the case, I would offset them by a few millimeters to the actual holes thus not losing any cooling performance.
 

[jc]VanDamme

Banrighted
Banrighted
#3
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Next was to fit the new tubing (not relying on the old tubing given the state of the water blocks)



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Now I fitted and leaked tested everything, great spot on!!!

Then stress tested, major problems!

The second card went to 90C (whilst my first card peaked at 49C! In the past my second card would be 1-2 deg higher), it crashed the PC on the second section of Firestrike.


OK, maybe because I didn't re-paste the blocks (there seemed to be enough left on and besides the first card was OK), would I have to drain and dismantle it all?

Then it struck me did I screw the block on tightly enough, I thought this because the idle temp of the 2nd gfx card was only 1-2 deg above the 1st (30 deg-ish) but high when used.


"Yes! Great!" I thought, two of the screws *were* loose! I tightened them and tightened them and tightened them. Oh no they had no resistance and just kept spinning! Looks like I will have to dismantle it all again! BUT was expecting the following as one standoff had already sheared off and I had to improvise (story of the thread!):








It was lucky I got the threads out! OK then I rejigged the standoffs and instead of a a standoff I used a screw of the correct length hex screw and opened up the PCB hole.

No problems! Thought to prevent the standoffs breaking or not tightening I would use a dab of nail varnish around the standoffs. As opposed to gluing the threads themselves as I would get the "studs" out if it happened again (apparently it is common!)

Note my very sophisticated method of blocking my tubes :p

 

[jc]VanDamme

Banrighted
Banrighted
#4
Powered breakfast too!


But still the same problem!

Dismantled it again, now I will let you into a problem I had when fitting these blocks before.
These are to fit MSI waterblocks. The cards are Zotac cards! I had to mod them, to open them up via the the capacitor row. The eagled eyed amongst you can see the result of this above!

The other thing was that I knocked of a very small component, this happened again, I used a microscope and soldering iron to fix it. This time round the component jumped out of tweezers and was lost somewhere on the carpet! I contacted Zotace but they refused to ID the component (probably due to IP reasons).





I have done a bit of digging from the above pictures and have sourced, hopefully, the same component. This is arriving soon, in the meantime I had to disable in windows the second card (far easier than physically removing it :D ).
 

[jc]VanDamme

Banrighted
Banrighted
#7
Give you an idea of the component size missing (Q12) of course the extra hinderance is that the microscope I use is optically not complete, that is it has all the parts but looks mirrored when viewing up close so move my soldering iron up or left makes it viewed as down and right! (for the interested it is a travelling Vernier microscope):
 

ElementX

Braindead
Game Admin
#8
and i though getting a fan with a female jack instead of male one was a bad situation. Dude, you are insane, to actually use a microscope to mod your components, ye, you convinced me to stick to fan cooling. I salute your patience!

the glass looks like a dust trap? other than that, gj on your skills. it's nice to see some creativity around here, or at least some willingness to share it with others.
 

[jc]VanDamme

Banrighted
Banrighted
#9
and i though getting a fan with a female jack instead of male one was a bad situation. Dude, you are insane, to actually use a microscope to mod your components, ye, you convinced me to stick to fan cooling. I salute your patience!

the glass looks like a dust trap? other than that, gj on your skills. it's nice to see some creativity around here, or at least some willingness to share it with others.
The glass can come off easily with thumbscrews. The back of the rad and three RGB fans are not too bad to clean. I use a thin/soft painter's brush to brush and flick the parts, whilst holding a vacuum closeby! Plenty of window cleaner will be required!

Beleive me I swore (and the rest!) many times during the soldering, even a needle looks big (to hold the chip in place) and things jump around!
 

[jc]VanDamme

Banrighted
Banrighted
#14
Very nice build sir! Seems like you went thru lot of problems with the Water Cooling way. Don't mine sharing what are the Specs?
Do'h :p
Case: Kolink Observatory
PSU: Coolmaster Silent Pro 1000W
Motherboard: MSI P67A-GD65
CPU: Intel 2600K @ OC'd 4.6 GHz
RAM: 16 Gb Corsair 2000 MHz (only runs at 1800 due to Motherboard)
Sound: ASUS Xonar with Creative 5.1 Speakers.
GFX: 2 x Zotac 970 GTX
SSD: 180 Gb Corsair (the quick one)
HDD: 2Tb + 750 Gb + 500 Gb (via new USB 3 external enclosure, had to sacrifice this due to space).

Watercooling:
CPU: EK Supreme
GFX: EK full cover block with a EK block connector.
Pump: Phobya 200
Res: Coolmaster 150
Rad: 240 Black Ice, 240 XSPC (Thicc!)
Tubing and fittings: all 19 mm outer diamter (Thicc!)

Held good for about 8 years now, added second 970 when CoD WWII came out, just my luck it didn't utilise SLi and modded profiles never worked!

Got an upgrade itch but nothing is either worth the price or performance, waiting for AMD's new Ryzen II (was team AMD since my first PC: Athlon Thundebird 1.4 GHz, changed to Intel since the Q6600 came out) and hopefully something better GPU wise.
Plus I am not overawed by any of the new games coming out either!